{"code":"var Component=(()=>{var u=Object.create;var r=Object.defineProperty;var p=Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor;var y=Object.getOwnPropertyNames;var g=Object.getPrototypeOf,m=Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty;var w=(o,e)=>()=>(e||o((e={exports:{}}).exports,e),e.exports),f=(o,e)=>{for(var n in e)r(o,n,{get:e[n],enumerable:!0})},s=(o,e,n,a)=>{if(e&&typeof e==\"object\"||typeof e==\"function\")for(let i of y(e))!m.call(o,i)&&i!==n&&r(o,i,{get:()=>e[i],enumerable:!(a=p(e,i))||a.enumerable});return o};var b=(o,e,n)=>(n=o!=null?u(g(o)):{},s(e||!o||!o.__esModule?r(n,\"default\",{value:o,enumerable:!0}):n,o)),k=o=>s(r({},\"__esModule\",{value:!0}),o);var h=w((S,l)=>{l.exports=_jsx_runtime});var v={};f(v,{default:()=>c});var t=b(h());function d(o){let e={a:\"a\",code:\"code\",em:\"em\",h2:\"h2\",img:\"img\",li:\"li\",ol:\"ol\",p:\"p\",strong:\"strong\",ul:\"ul\",...o.components};return(0,t.jsxs)(t.Fragment,{children:[(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"You updated to macOS Tahoe, the Mac restarted, and now you are staring at the login screen with a password field that refuses to accept a single keystroke. Your Bluetooth keyboard lights are on, the mouse pointer will not budge, and no amount of clicking or typing wakes anything up. You cannot even get far enough to reach your own desktop. The cruel irony is that the moment you \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"do\"}),\" find a way in, that exact same keyboard and mouse work flawlessly \\u2014 full speed, every key, no lag. The hardware is fine. What you are hitting is a specific, well-documented behavior change in how macOS Tahoe handles third-party Bluetooth input \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"before\"}),\" you log in, and once you understand the mechanism, the fixes are straightforward.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"This guide explains exactly what is happening at the login screen, the FileVault unlock prompt, and in Recovery, why Apple's own Magic Keyboard sails through while your Logitech, Keychron, or Razer gear sits there dead, and every practical way to get back into your Mac and keep it that way.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:(0,t.jsx)(e.img,{alt:\"Mac login screen with an unresponsive Bluetooth keyboard and mouse\",src:\"/images/blog/bluetooth-keyboard-mouse-not-working-login-screen-macos-tahoe-fix-2026/hero.webp\",width:\"2848\",height:\"1504\"})}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"key-takeaways\",children:\"Key Takeaways\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ul,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"This is a pre-login software behavior, not broken hardware.\"}),\" Reported since macOS Tahoe 26.0.1 and continuing in later point updates, many third-party Bluetooth keyboards and mice fail to respond at the password screen and at FileVault unlock, even though they work perfectly once you reach the desktop.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Apple's first-party input works because it initializes earlier in boot.\"}),\" Magic Keyboard, Magic Trackpad, and Magic Mouse are recognized by the early-boot/firmware layer; third-party Bluetooth peripherals depend on the full Bluetooth stack that only comes up \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"after\"}),\" login.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"FileVault makes it worse by design.\"}),\" The FileVault pre-boot environment is deliberately minimal and generally does not support Bluetooth at all, so even setups that are otherwise fine can fail specifically at the encryption unlock prompt.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"The fastest way back in is a wired keyboard or a 2.4 GHz USB dongle.\"}),\" A USB or USB-C keyboard, or a Logi Bolt / Unifying receiver running in 2.4 GHz mode, gets you through login; Bluetooth then takes over once you are on the desktop.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keep a cheap wired keyboard around as permanent insurance.\"}),\" Until Apple ships a fix, a wired backup is the single most reliable safeguard against being locked out.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Do not casually disable FileVault.\"}),' Turning off full-disk encryption \"fixes\" the unlock screen but removes real protection for your data. Treat it as a deliberate, last-resort tradeoff, not a quick tip.']}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"what-exactly-happens-login-screen-vs-filevault-vs-recovery\",children:\"What Exactly Happens: Login Screen vs FileVault vs Recovery\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"The first step to fixing this is recognizing it precisely, because three different screens look superficially similar but behave differently. All three appear before you reach your desktop, and on an affected Mac your third-party Bluetooth keyboard and mouse can be dead at any or all of them.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"The standard login window.\"}),\" This is the gray screen showing your user account and a password field after a normal restart. On affected machines running macOS Tahoe, you click (or try to click) the password field and nothing types. The mouse pointer may not move at all, or it may have appeared briefly during boot and then frozen. Crucially, the keyboard's own indicator lights are often on, and the device still shows as charged and powered \\u2014 it simply is not delivering input to this screen.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"The FileVault unlock screen.\"}),\" If you have FileVault full-disk encryption enabled (and on modern Macs it is frequently on by default), the very first screen after powering on is \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"not\"}),\" the normal login window \\u2014 it is the FileVault pre-boot unlock prompt, which asks for your password to decrypt the disk before macOS proper even loads. This screen runs in an extremely stripped-down environment, and Bluetooth is generally not available there at all. This is the harshest version of the problem: your keyboard may have worked at the regular login window in earlier macOS releases, but the FileVault prompt is a different, lower-level context.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Recovery mode.\"}),\" When you boot into macOS Recovery (to run Disk Utility, reinstall, or change security settings), you are again in a minimal environment. Many users report that third-party Bluetooth input also fails here, which is especially frustrating because Recovery is exactly where you might go to troubleshoot. Apple's Magic Keyboard tends to work in Recovery; generic and third-party Bluetooth devices frequently do not.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"A quick self-diagnosis:\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ul,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keyboard dead at the gray password window, works after login\"}),\" \\u2192 the pre-login Bluetooth-stack issue described in this guide.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"First screen on power-up is a full-screen password prompt with no account list, and nothing types\"}),\" \\u2192 that is almost certainly the \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"FileVault\"}),\" unlock prompt, the special case covered below.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keyboard dead in Recovery (Disk Utility / Reinstall menu)\"}),\" \\u2192 same minimal-environment limitation; use wired or a dongle.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keyboard works fine at login but disconnects randomly on the desktop\"}),\" \\u2192 that is a \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"different\"}),\" problem (general Bluetooth disconnects), not this bug. See the note near the end.\"]}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Reports of this behavior span both Intel and Apple Silicon Macs and multiple device models from Logitech, Keychron, Razer, and assorted generic brands. When a problem hits many different keyboards across two CPU architectures right after a single OS update, that is the signature of a software change, not a hardware fault on your end.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"why-first-party-works-but-third-party-doesnt\",children:\"Why First-Party Works but Third-Party Doesn't\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"This is the part that confuses people most, so it is worth getting right. The reason your Apple Magic Keyboard types at the login screen while your third-party board does not is about \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"when\"}),\" in the boot sequence each device becomes usable, and \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"which\"}),\" software is responsible for talking to it.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"When a Mac powers on, it does not bring up the full operating system all at once. It comes up in layers. The earliest layers \\u2014 firmware and the initial boot environment \\u2014 load only a minimal set of drivers, just enough to put a login or unlock screen on the display and accept a password. The complete macOS environment, with the full Bluetooth stack, all its background services, and third-party driver support, does not finish initializing until \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"after\"}),\" you authenticate and reach the desktop.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Apple's own input devices are accounted for in that early layer. The firmware and early-boot code know how to recognize and pair with a Magic Keyboard, Magic Trackpad, or Magic Mouse, because Apple controls both the hardware and that boot code and has deliberately built in support so you can type your password on a wireless Apple keyboard. Those devices initialize early.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Third-party Bluetooth peripherals do not get that treatment. They rely either on their own drivers (which are not loaded yet at the pre-login stage) or on the general-purpose Bluetooth stack \\u2014 and that full stack is precisely the thing that only comes up after login. So at the password screen, the system has a display, a minimal input path that knows about Apple HID devices, and not much else. Your Logitech or Keychron keyboard is, from the pre-login environment's point of view, simply not on the list of things it knows how to listen to yet.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"That is also why the problem evaporates the instant you are on the desktop: the full Bluetooth stack finishes coming up, your keyboard is recognized exactly as it always was, and everything works at full capability. Nothing about your keyboard changed. The window in which third-party Bluetooth is unsupported is the pre-login window, and macOS Tahoe appears to have narrowed or changed what works in that window compared with earlier releases, which is why people who never had this trouble before suddenly do after updating.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:'A useful mental model: there are two completely separate \"Bluetooth\" experiences on your Mac. There is the limited, early-boot input path that exists only to get you past authentication, and there is the rich, full Bluetooth stack that runs your logged-in session. They are not the same system, and a device working perfectly in the second one tells you nothing about whether it works in the first.'}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"the-filevault-pre-boot-special-case\",children:\"The FileVault Pre-Boot Special Case\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"FileVault deserves its own section because it is both the most common trigger of total lockout and the one with the most important tradeoffs.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"FileVault encrypts your entire startup disk. Because the disk is encrypted, macOS cannot even read the files it needs to boot until \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"someone\"}),\" supplies the password to decrypt the volume. So Apple presents a special pre-boot unlock screen that runs before the operating system loads. This environment is intentionally as small and as hardened as possible \\u2014 the less code running before decryption, the smaller the attack surface against your encrypted data. As a direct consequence, the FileVault pre-boot environment generally does not bring up Bluetooth at all.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"That design choice predates Tahoe and is not a bug; it is a deliberate security posture. What it means in practice is that \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Bluetooth keyboards and mice are essentially never guaranteed to work at the FileVault unlock screen\"}),\", first-party devices included in some configurations. If your Mac shows a full-screen password prompt the moment you power it on, with no list of user accounts and no other UI, you are looking at the FileVault prompt, and the realistic options are:\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ol,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Use a wired keyboard (or a 2.4 GHz dongle) to type the unlock password.\"}),\" This is the supported, secure answer. You decrypt with wired input, macOS boots, and your Bluetooth devices come alive on the desktop. This keeps full-disk encryption intact.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Disable FileVault\"}),\" so that the first screen after boot is the ordinary login window rather than the pre-boot decryption prompt. This is an advanced tradeoff with real downsides, covered in detail in its own section below. It is \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"not\"}),\" a casual recommendation.\"]}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"The honest framing is this: FileVault is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. The inconvenience of typing your password on a wired keyboard is the cost of having your data encrypted at rest. For most people that is a trade worth keeping, and the right fix is a wired keyboard, not weaker security.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"get-back-in-right-now-wired-keyboard-and-24-ghz-dongles\",children:\"Get Back In Right Now: Wired Keyboard and 2.4 GHz Dongles\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"If you are locked out at this moment, here is the immediate path back in. You need any input device that does \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"not\"}),\" rely on the post-login Bluetooth stack.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Option 1: A wired USB or USB-C keyboard.\"}),\" This is the most reliable thing you can do. Plug a wired keyboard directly into the Mac (or into a powered hub if the Mac only has USB-C ports and your keyboard is USB-A \\u2014 though a direct connection is most dependable). Wired keyboards present themselves as standard USB HID devices that the early-boot environment understands, so they work at the login window, at the FileVault prompt, and in Recovery. Type your password, log in, and your Bluetooth gear will work normally on the desktop. Even a cheap $10 keyboard does the job; it does not have to be fancy.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Option 2: A 2.4 GHz USB dongle keyboard or mouse.\"}),\" Many third-party keyboards and mice are not strictly Bluetooth-only. Logitech in particular ships a large range of devices with a \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Logi Bolt\"}),\" or \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Unifying\"}),\" USB receiver \\u2014 a small dongle that plugs into a USB port and communicates with the device over a dedicated 2.4 GHz radio link, completely separate from Bluetooth. To the Mac, a device connected through one of these receivers looks like a plain USB HID device, so it works at login the same way a wired keyboard does.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:'If your keyboard supports both Bluetooth and a 2.4 GHz dongle (many gaming and productivity keyboards have a switch on the back, often labeled with a Bluetooth symbol and a \"2.4G\" or dongle symbol), do the following:'}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ol,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"Find the USB receiver that came with the keyboard or mouse. For Logitech, this is the Logi Bolt or Unifying receiver; for other brands it is usually a tiny dongle stored in the battery compartment or the base of the device.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"Plug the receiver into the Mac.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"Flip the keyboard/mouse to its 2.4 GHz mode (toggle switch or a dedicated channel button \\u2014 consult the device's quick-start guide if you are unsure which position is which).\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"The device should now work at the login and unlock screens. Log in.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"Once on the desktop, you can switch back to Bluetooth mode if you prefer, or simply leave it on the dongle.\"}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Option 3: Apple's own keyboard, temporarily.\"}),\" If you happen to own or can borrow a Magic Keyboard, it will get you in because, as explained above, Apple's input devices initialize in the early-boot layer. This is a get-in-now measure, not a daily solution if you prefer your third-party board.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"The takeaway: at login you want USB-HID-class input \\u2014 wired or a 2.4 GHz receiver \\u2014 not Bluetooth. That is the whole trick.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:(0,t.jsx)(e.img,{alt:\"A wired USB keyboard and a 2.4 GHz USB receiver dongle plugged into a Mac\",src:\"/images/blog/bluetooth-keyboard-mouse-not-working-login-screen-macos-tahoe-fix-2026/content-1.webp\",width:\"2848\",height:\"1504\"})}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"permanent-workarounds-that-survive-reboots\",children:\"Permanent Workarounds That Survive Reboots\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Getting in once is good; not having to think about it again is better. Here are the durable setups, roughly in order of how robust they are.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keep a wired keyboard permanently connected (most robust).\"}),' If you have a desktop Mac (Mac mini, Mac Studio, iMac, Mac Pro) or a docked MacBook, the simplest permanent fix is to leave a wired keyboard plugged in alongside your Bluetooth one. You only ever touch the wired one to log in; everything afterward happens on your preferred Bluetooth board. Because a wired keyboard never depends on the Bluetooth stack, it cannot be broken by this bug or by future Bluetooth changes. This is genuinely the \"set it and forget it\" answer.']}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Run your daily keyboard on its 2.4 GHz dongle full-time.\"}),\" If your keyboard supports a Logi Bolt / Unifying or generic 2.4 GHz receiver, just live on the dongle instead of Bluetooth. You lose nothing meaningful in everyday use \\u2014 2.4 GHz receivers are low-latency and stable \\u2014 and you gain login-screen support for free, because the receiver presents as USB HID at every stage of boot. For many Logitech owners this is the cleanest fix, since they already own the receiver.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Pair correctly while logged in, and allow Bluetooth wake.\"}),\" Make sure your Bluetooth devices are paired while you are logged in to the desktop (the normal way) so the pairing is properly stored. Then enable wake-from-Bluetooth: open \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"System Settings \\u2192 Bluetooth\"}),\", click the info (\\u24D8) button next to the device, and turn on \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Allow this device to wake the computer\"}),\" (wording may vary slightly by version). On older layouts this lived under \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"System Settings \\u2192 Bluetooth \\u2192 Advanced\"}),\". This does not magically make Bluetooth work at the FileVault prompt, but it improves reliability of wake and reconnection at the standard login window on some setups, and it is a sensible baseline.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Disable FileVault (advanced, with real tradeoffs).\"}),\" Covered in its own section below. Moving the unlock to the ordinary login window can let some configurations accept Bluetooth input \\u2014 but you are giving up disk encryption to get there, so weigh it carefully.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"For the vast majority of readers, a wired keyboard kept nearby or a keyboard living on its 2.4 GHz dongle is the right permanent answer. Both sidestep the problem entirely and cost little.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"reset-bluetooth-safely-and-what-to-expect\",children:\"Reset Bluetooth Safely (and What to Expect)\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"If your Bluetooth devices are also misbehaving once you are logged in \\u2014 slow to connect, dropping, or not reconnecting after wake \\u2014 a clean Bluetooth reset can help. This will \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"not\"}),\" fix the pre-login bug (nothing on the desktop can, because the issue is in the early-boot environment), but it is worth doing if your desktop Bluetooth experience is also rough. Do this only after you can log in (via wired or dongle).\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Step 1 \\u2014 Forget and re-pair the device.\"}),\" Open \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"System Settings \\u2192 Bluetooth\"}),\", click the info (\\u24D8) button next to the problem device, choose \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Forget This Device\"}),\", confirm, then put the device into pairing mode and add it again fresh. This alone resolves a lot of stale-pairing weirdness and is the least invasive step. Do this first.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Step 2 \\u2014 Remove unused Bluetooth devices.\"}),\" Old pairings you no longer use (a previous mouse, a friend's headphones) can cause the system to spend effort managing devices that are not even present. Forget anything you do not actively use.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Step 3 \\u2014 Reset Bluetooth preference files (more aggressive).\"}),\" macOS stores Bluetooth configuration in property-list files. Deleting them forces the system to rebuild Bluetooth state from scratch, which can clear corrupted configuration. The relevant files are:\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ul,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.code,{children:\"/Library/Preferences/com.apple.Bluetooth.plist\"}),\" \\u2014 the main system-wide Bluetooth preference file.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"There may also be per-user state, but the system-level file above is the primary one to clear.\"}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"To do this safely:\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ol,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Log in first\"}),\" (wired or dongle) \\u2014 you cannot do any of this from the locked screen.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"Quit anything that depends on Bluetooth, and ideally have a wired keyboard/mouse connected so you are not stranded if Bluetooth drops while you work.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[\"In Finder, use \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Go \\u2192 Go to Folder\"}),\" and enter \",(0,t.jsx)(e.code,{children:\"/Library/Preferences/\"}),\", or open Terminal.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[\"Move \",(0,t.jsx)(e.code,{children:\"com.apple.Bluetooth.plist\"}),\" to the Trash (do not just delete it permanently yet \\u2014 keep it in the Trash as a backup until you confirm things are working). Modifying files in \",(0,t.jsx)(e.code,{children:\"/Library/\"}),\" requires administrator authentication, so you will be asked for your password.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.li,{children:\"Restart the Mac.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[\"On the next boot, macOS recreates a fresh \",(0,t.jsx)(e.code,{children:\"com.apple.Bluetooth.plist\"}),\" automatically.\"]}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"What to expect afterward:\"}),\" all your Bluetooth pairings will be gone, because you cleared the file that remembered them. You will need to \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"re-pair every Bluetooth device\"}),\" \\u2014 keyboard, mouse, headphones, everything. This is normal and expected, not a sign something went wrong. Once re-paired, the new configuration is clean. Keep the old file in the Trash for a day or two; if anything is worse, you can restore it. Once you are confident the reset helped, empty the Trash.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Again: this is a desktop-Bluetooth-health fix, not a cure for the login-screen bug. Set expectations accordingly.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"check-firmware-and-macos-updates\",children:\"Check Firmware and macOS Updates\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Two software layers can change this behavior over time, and keeping both current is worthwhile.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keyboard and mouse firmware.\"}),\" Third-party peripherals receive firmware updates that can improve Bluetooth reliability and compatibility. Check yours:\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.ul,{children:[`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Logitech:\"}),\" install \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Logi Options+\"}),\" and let it check for firmware updates on your keyboard, mouse, and receiver. Logitech occasionally updates the Bolt/Unifying receiver firmware too.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keychron:\"}),\" many Keychron boards update through the web-based \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Keychron Launcher\"}),\" (a browser-based configurator) or via QMK/VIA depending on the model. Check your specific model's support page for the right tool.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Razer:\"}),\" use \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Razer Synapse\"}),\" to check device firmware.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.li,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Other brands:\"}),\" look for the manufacturer's companion app or a firmware utility on their support site.\"]}),`\n`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"Firmware updates rarely make a device suddenly work at the pre-login screen (that limitation is on the macOS side), but they do reduce desktop disconnects and improve general stability, which is worth having.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"macOS point updates.\"}),\" Because this is a behavior change that arrived with macOS Tahoe (widely reported starting around 26.0.1 and persisting into later updates as of this writing), the most likely real fix is an Apple point update. Keep an eye on \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"System Settings \\u2192 General \\u2192 Software Update\"}),\" and install macOS updates as they ship. When you read release notes for new Tahoe point releases, watch for Bluetooth or login-window fixes. Do not assume any given update fixes it \\u2014 verify with your own keyboard after updating \\u2014 but updates are where the eventual fix will come from. Until then, treat the wired/dongle workaround as your safety net regardless of what version you are on.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"A small caution: install macOS updates when you have a wired keyboard or dongle on hand. If an update reboots straight into a login or FileVault screen and your Bluetooth keyboard is dead, you do not want to discover that with no way to type your password.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"intel-vs-apple-silicon-reset-differences\",children:\"Intel vs Apple Silicon: Reset Differences\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:'People often reach for an \"SMC reset\" or \"NVRAM reset\" when input or power behavior gets strange. How (and whether) you do that depends entirely on which kind of Mac you have, and getting this wrong wastes time.'}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Intel Macs.\"}),\" Older Intel-based Macs have a System Management Controller (SMC) that handles low-level functions including some power and peripheral behavior, and a separate NVRAM/PRAM that stores small settings. On these machines you can perform an SMC reset and an NVRAM reset using Apple's documented key combinations (the exact steps differ between Macs with and without the Apple T2 chip, and between desktops and notebooks \\u2014 follow Apple's official instructions for your specific model). These resets occasionally clear odd peripheral or power states. Note the catch-22: NVRAM resets and some SMC steps require holding \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"keyboard\"}),\" keys at boot, which means you need working input at boot \\u2014 so use a wired keyboard for the reset itself.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Apple Silicon Macs.\"}),\" Macs with Apple M-series chips \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"do not have a user-resettable SMC\"}),\", and there is \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"no manual NVRAM reset key combination\"}),'. Apple deliberately moved this management into the boot process. The equivalent of an \"SMC reset\" on Apple Silicon is simply a ',(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"full shutdown and restart\"}),\": choose \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Apple menu \\u2192 Shut Down\"}),', wait about 30 seconds, then power back on. NVRAM is managed automatically and resets itself as needed during the boot sequence; there is nothing for you to hold down. If someone tells you to \"reset the SMC\" on an M-series Mac, the correct action is a clean shutdown and restart.']}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"Set expectations honestly: neither an SMC reset (Intel) nor a shutdown/restart (Apple Silicon) is likely to fix the \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"pre-login Bluetooth\"}),\" limitation, because that limitation is about which drivers load in the early-boot environment, not about a stuck power or NVRAM state. These resets are reasonable general housekeeping for flaky behavior, but the login-screen issue is best handled with wired/dongle input and, eventually, a macOS update.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"when-to-disable-filevault-and-why-you-usually-shouldnt\",children:\"When to Disable FileVault (and Why You Usually Shouldn't)\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"This is the option people are most tempted by and the one that most needs an honest treatment, so read this section before acting.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"What disabling FileVault does in this context.\"}),' With FileVault on, the first screen after power-up is the pre-boot decryption prompt, an environment where Bluetooth is generally unavailable. With FileVault off, there is no pre-boot decryption step; the Mac boots into the ordinary login window. On some configurations the ordinary login window is more forgiving of Bluetooth input than the FileVault prompt, so turning FileVault off can move you from \"no Bluetooth at all\" to \"Bluetooth might work at login.\" That is the entire appeal.']}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Why you usually should not.\"}),\" FileVault is full-disk encryption. With it on, if your Mac is lost or stolen, the data on it is unreadable without your password \\u2014 a genuinely strong protection for personal documents, credentials, photos, work files, and anything else on the drive. Turn FileVault off and that protection is gone: anyone who gets physical access to the machine (or pulls the drive) can read your data. For a laptop you carry around, that is a serious downgrade. You would be trading the security of all your data for the convenience of not plugging in a $10 wired keyboard at login. For almost everyone, that trade is a bad one.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"If you still choose to disable it,\"}),\" do so consciously: \",(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"System Settings \\u2192 Privacy & Security \\u2192 FileVault \\u2192 Turn Off.\"}),\" Decryption can take a while depending on disk size, and the data is unprotected at rest afterward. Strongly prefer this only on a desktop Mac that physically stays in a secure location (not a laptop), and only if a wired keyboard is genuinely not an option for you.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"The far better answer in nearly every case\"}),\" is to keep FileVault on and type the unlock password with a wired keyboard or a 2.4 GHz dongle. That gets you fully back in, costs almost nothing, and keeps your data encrypted. Reach for disabling encryption only as a deliberate, well-understood last resort \\u2014 never as a quick fix.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:(0,t.jsx)(e.img,{alt:\"macOS System Settings showing the FileVault encryption pane\",src:\"/images/blog/bluetooth-keyboard-mouse-not-working-login-screen-macos-tahoe-fix-2026/content-2.webp\",width:\"2848\",height:\"1504\"})}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"troubleshooting-common-issues\",children:\"Troubleshooting Common Issues\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"My 2.4 GHz dongle also does not work at login.\"}),\" First, confirm the device is actually \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"in\"}),\" 2.4 GHz mode and not still set to Bluetooth \\u2014 many dual-mode keyboards have a physical toggle, and it is easy to be on the wrong setting. Make sure the receiver is firmly seated; try a different USB port and, if you are using a hub, plug the receiver directly into the Mac instead. A few dongles need a moment to enumerate, so power the keyboard on a few seconds before the screen appears, or press a key to wake it. If it still fails, fall back to a fully wired keyboard, which removes every radio variable. Also re-pair the device to its receiver while logged in (Logi Options+ can re-pair a Bolt receiver) so the link is fresh.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"The device works on the desktop but not at login.\"}),' This is the expected signature of the bug, not a misconfiguration on your part. Desktop = full Bluetooth stack (works); login = minimal early-boot environment (third-party Bluetooth unsupported). There is no desktop-side setting that changes the early-boot environment, so do not burn time hunting through System Settings for a toggle that would \"enable Bluetooth at login\" \\u2014 it does not exist. Use wired or a 2.4 GHz dongle to get past login; your Bluetooth device will keep working on the desktop exactly as it does now.']}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"It fails specifically at the FileVault unlock screen.\"}),\" This is the special case. The FileVault pre-boot environment is intentionally minimal and generally has no Bluetooth at all, so this is the hardest screen for any wireless device. Use a wired keyboard or a 2.4 GHz USB receiver to type the unlock password. Do not disable FileVault just to dodge this unless you fully accept the loss of disk encryption (see the section above). Once decryption succeeds and macOS boots, your Bluetooth devices come back to life.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Input does not work in Recovery mode.\"}),\" Recovery is another minimal environment, and third-party Bluetooth often does not work there. If you need to use Recovery (Disk Utility, reinstall, Startup Security settings), connect a wired keyboard and mouse, or use a 2.4 GHz dongle. Apple's Magic Keyboard usually works in Recovery if you have one. Plan ahead: if you are about to do anything that lands you in Recovery, have wired input ready before you start.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Nothing works at all \\u2014 wired included.\"}),\" If even a known-good wired keyboard does nothing at login, the issue may be different from this bug. Try a different USB port and a different cable, verify the keyboard works on another computer, and make sure you are not actually looking at a frozen screen (force a clean restart by holding the power button). If a wired keyboard works on another machine but not on your Mac at any screen, that points to a port, cable, or deeper system issue worth taking to Apple Support.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Important \\u2014 is this even the login bug?\"}),\" If your Bluetooth keyboard and mouse work fine at login but then disconnect, lag, or drop randomly \",(0,t.jsx)(e.em,{children:\"while you are using the desktop\"}),\", that is a completely separate problem (general Bluetooth interference, codec, or connection-management issues) and not the pre-login limitation this article covers. Diagnosing the wrong problem is the most common time-waster here, so confirm which symptom you actually have before applying fixes.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"faq\",children:\"FAQ\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Will Apple fix this so my Bluetooth keyboard works at login again?\"}),`\nMost likely the lasting fix arrives in a macOS Tahoe point update, since this is a software behavior change introduced with Tahoe (reported since 26.0.1). Keep installing updates via Software Update and re-test your keyboard after each one, but keep a wired keyboard handy until it is confirmed resolved.`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Why does my Apple Magic Keyboard work at login but my Logitech does not?\"}),`\nApple's input devices are recognized by the early-boot layer that draws the login screen, so they initialize before macOS fully loads. Third-party Bluetooth devices depend on the full Bluetooth stack, which only comes up after you log in, so they are unavailable at the pre-login screen.`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Is it safe to delete com.apple.Bluetooth.plist?\"}),`\nYes, when done carefully and only after you can log in. Move `,(0,t.jsx)(e.code,{children:\"/Library/Preferences/com.apple.Bluetooth.plist\"}),\" to the Trash rather than deleting it outright, restart, and macOS rebuilds it. Expect to re-pair every Bluetooth device afterward, which is normal. Keep the old file as a backup briefly.\"]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Should I just turn off FileVault to fix the unlock screen?\"}),`\nGenerally no. Disabling FileVault removes full-disk encryption, leaving your data readable to anyone with physical access. Prefer typing the unlock password with a wired keyboard or 2.4 GHz dongle, which keeps encryption intact. Only disable FileVault as a deliberate last resort on a physically secured desktop.`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[(0,t.jsx)(e.strong,{children:\"Does resetting the SMC or NVRAM fix this on my Mac?\"}),`\nProbably not, because the issue is which drivers load during early boot, not a stuck power state. Apple Silicon Macs have no SMC reset anyway \\u2014 just shut down fully and restart. Intel Macs can do SMC/NVRAM resets via Apple's documented keys, but do not expect them to restore pre-login Bluetooth.`]}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.h2,{id:\"conclusion\",children:\"Conclusion\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsx)(e.p,{children:\"A Bluetooth keyboard that goes dead at the macOS Tahoe login screen feels like a hardware failure, but it is really a question of timing: the early-boot environment that draws the login and FileVault screens knows how to talk to Apple's own input devices and not much else, and the full Bluetooth stack your third-party keyboard relies on does not come up until after you authenticate. Once you understand that, the fixes are simple and reliable. Get in right now with a wired keyboard or a 2.4 GHz USB dongle, keep one of those around as permanent insurance, and watch for the macOS point update that should eventually close the gap. Resist the temptation to disable FileVault as a shortcut \\u2014 the cost to your data security is far higher than the cost of plugging in a cheap keyboard.\"}),`\n`,(0,t.jsxs)(e.p,{children:[\"If you are chasing other Tahoe quirks, these guides cover related ground. For Bluetooth audio specifically, see \",(0,t.jsx)(e.a,{href:\"/blog/airpods-stuttering-cutting-out-mac-macos-tahoe-26-5-bluetooth-codec-fix-2026\",children:\"AirPods stuttering or cutting out on Mac\"}),\". If your mic also stopped working after the update, read \",(0,t.jsx)(e.a,{href:\"/blog/mac-microphone-not-working-macos-tahoe-26-5-input-permissions-fix-2026\",children:\"Mac microphone not working on macOS Tahoe\"}),\", and for wireless iPhone-as-webcam trouble, \",(0,t.jsx)(e.a,{href:\"/blog/continuity-camera-not-working-mac-macos-tahoe-26-5-wireless-fix-2026\",children:\"Continuity Camera not working on Mac\"}),\". For display problems after waking or booting, see the \",(0,t.jsx)(e.a,{href:\"/blog/external-display-not-detected-macos-tahoe-complete-diagnostic-fix-guide-2026\",children:\"external display not detected diagnostic guide\"}),\", and if your Mac is restarting unexpectedly, \",(0,t.jsx)(e.a,{href:\"/blog/mac-kernel-panic-random-restart-macos-tahoe-26-5-refresh-rate-panic-log-fix-2026\",children:\"Mac kernel panic and random restart fixes\"}),\". Finally, to stay current on what each release changes, bookmark the \",(0,t.jsx)(e.a,{href:\"/blog/macos-tahoe-26-5-released-complete-update-guide-security-cve-roundup-2026\",children:\"macOS Tahoe 26.5 update guide and security roundup\"}),\".\"]})]})}function c(o={}){let{wrapper:e}=o.components||{};return e?(0,t.jsx)(e,{...o,children:(0,t.jsx)(d,{...o})}):d(o)}return k(v);})();\n;return Component;","toc":[{"title":"Key Takeaways","url":"#key-takeaways","depth":2},{"title":"What Exactly Happens: Login Screen vs FileVault vs Recovery","url":"#what-exactly-happens-login-screen-vs-filevault-vs-recovery","depth":2},{"title":"Why First-Party Works but Third-Party Doesn't","url":"#why-first-party-works-but-third-party-doesnt","depth":2},{"title":"The FileVault Pre-Boot Special Case","url":"#the-filevault-pre-boot-special-case","depth":2},{"title":"Get Back In Right Now: Wired Keyboard and 2.4 GHz Dongles","url":"#get-back-in-right-now-wired-keyboard-and-24-ghz-dongles","depth":2},{"title":"Permanent Workarounds That Survive Reboots","url":"#permanent-workarounds-that-survive-reboots","depth":2},{"title":"Reset Bluetooth Safely (and What to Expect)","url":"#reset-bluetooth-safely-and-what-to-expect","depth":2},{"title":"Check Firmware and macOS Updates","url":"#check-firmware-and-macos-updates","depth":2},{"title":"Intel vs Apple Silicon: Reset Differences","url":"#intel-vs-apple-silicon-reset-differences","depth":2},{"title":"When to Disable FileVault (and Why You Usually Shouldn't)","url":"#when-to-disable-filevault-and-why-you-usually-shouldnt","depth":2},{"title":"Troubleshooting Common Issues","url":"#troubleshooting-common-issues","depth":2},{"title":"FAQ","url":"#faq","depth":2},{"title":"Conclusion","url":"#conclusion","depth":2}],"estimatedTime":26}